Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf founded Tudor as a more economical brand that initially placed third-party movements inside Rolex casings. Tudor’s association with Rolex has long given the sub-brand respect, but it has also entrapped Tudor in Rolex’s shadow.
Tudor is quickly becoming one of the go-to sports watch brands, despite being a relative newcomer to the market (forgetting for a moment their great history long before their contemporary form).
They have the support of Rolex on the one hand and the creative flexibility to produce some more unique designs that straddle the line between function and flair on the other.
They’re so popular now that locating the one you want might not be as simple as you think. Indeed not Rolex difficult, but give it time. They’re on their way.
Black Bay Bronze
Tudor’s flagship diving watch case is given the steampunk treatment with the zeitgeisty, anti-corrosive case metal of the moment in the Black Bay Bronze, which is possibly their most successful (and most gorgeous) model to date.
The new incarnation combines the bronze with a faint slate-grey dial, a welcome change from the customary black, but otherwise stays true to the original design from last year.
The Black Bay offers everything you need in a diving watch, including a unidirectional rotating bezel, luminous indices, and a shark-proof case. This is the epitome of modern Tudor architecture.
Black Bay GMT
Tudor’s signature snowflake hand is also present, trimmed in bronze and driven by the Calibre MT5601 automatic movement. This is the pinnacle of modern Tudor design.
Since then, the GMT has remained one of Tudor’s most popular models. It can be not easy to contact, and it’s easy to see why. It boasts the large crown and snowflake hand that distinguishes the Black Bay – and Tudor – while costing a fraction of the Rolex equivalent.
The Black Bay has a unidirectional rotating bezel, luminescent indices, and a shark-proof case, so it has everything you need in a diving watch. Don’t miss out if you can get your hands on one of them.
Although the Sub name is now intimately tied to Rolex, it wasn’t always so. Tudor, in fact, released their version of the future icon a year later, in 1954.
They may not dare to use the name anymore, which is why there hasn’t been a recent re-launch, but you can get plenty of them on the used market, and they’re a true classic.
If you pay a little extra for an original (about £12,500), you’ll receive the watch that started it all, the ref—7016/0, complete with the renowned snowflake hour hand.
In any case, there’s nothing like sandbagging a new Tudor owner with the phrase “mine’s vintage,” which is the horological equivalent of “I purchased it before they were hip.”
I hesitate to argue that any watch is a wise investment, but given Tudor’s current state, a vintage Submariner could be a solid option. Just don’t hold your breath for them to survive at their original depths.
If the Black Bay honors Tudor’s diving watch tradition, the Pelagos pushes it forward. It’s the watchmaker’s ultimate tool timepiece, a robust deep-sea survivalist, and it’s water-resistant to 500 meters.
The Pelagos LHD ups the ante even more if you’re looking for a collector’s item, with a titanium and steel casing and a black ceramic disc placed into the bezel.
In most cases, the crown does not interfere with the wrist on which it is worn. With the more giant crown guards on a diving watch, however, wearing a right-handed crown on your right hand can become uncomfortable.
Black Bay Chrono
Until I tried it on, I never believed the Black Bay needed a chronograph function. The dial is well-suited to the additional sub-dials, and the tachymeter bezel is simply unique.
It may forego the classic heritage diver design in favor of a more technical vibe, but the dial is well-suited to the additional sub-dials, and the tachymeter bezel is simply unique.
Collectors should keep a lookout for the Black Bay Chrono Dark, the latest All Blacks tie-in. Even with the snowflake hour hand and massive pushers, the chrono’s black PVD case and bracelet have a Speedmaster feel to them as if they were designed to match the outstanding New Zealand team’s shirt.
All watches are meticulously inspected and prepared by Tudor’s highly trained, manufacturer-accredited watchmakers. EveryoneEveryone is meticulously examined under high magnification by experts trained to recognize any signs that a watch might be a fake. The company also cross-references the timepieces against official brand records when the information is available.